Samsung Smartthings Hub, bianco, STH-ETH-250, 100V
|Prezzo:||EUR 199,00 Spedizione GRATUITA.|
|Tutti i prezzi includono l'IVA.|
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- Certification : FCC, ZigBee, 2.4 GHZ, Frequency 868MHz
- Protocol : Z-Wave+ | TX Strength : +20 dBm | RF Channels : 14 | Range : 130+ ft. (40+ m) LOS
- Smartphone / SmartThings - Hub : iOS 7.0, Android 4.0, Windows Phone 8.1 or greater
- Rated Voltage: 5vDC @ 2A max
- Compatible with Europe & Rest of the Word. (Not suitable for USA)
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Your smart home needs a brain, so get started with a SmartThings hub. It connects with a wide range of smart devices and makes them work together. Next, add some smart devices and put your home to work. Choose from a wide range of compatible devices, including lights, speakers, locks, thermostats, sensors, and more. Finally, use the SmartThings app or Amazon to control your smart home. Teach your house the tricks by telling it when you are asleep, awake, away, and back home.
- 1 x SmartThings Hub
- 1 x Quick Start Guide
- 1 x Power supply (3 pin UK)
- 1 x Ethernet cable
- 4 x AA batteries
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1. Pretty easy installation of the hub and app
2. Easy recognition of newly installed z-wave devices
3. Very active community board with multiple "How-To's" and FAQs on the smartthing website to help with products
1. The Hub is moderately priced, but buying devices to integrate into the hub is dang expensive
2. Occasionally, does not always do what it is meant to do
3. Hub has to be plugged directly into the router
Download the app (I have an iPhone 5). Plug in the hub and DIRECTLY CONNECT THE HUB TO THE ROUTER. This means that the hub has to be in close proximity of the router (I have the latest generation of Apple's AirPort, which hasn't changed in 5+ years). Follow the instructions on the app and you're up and running! I had no issues.
Integration goes like this: Purchase GE Zwave light switch, which runs between $35 an $40 a pop! There may be cheaper ones, but not by much. (I recommend staying with the same brand throughout your house. It makes it easier to trouble shoot later on.) Multiply that by how many switches you have in your house! But, you can do this one switch at a time. No need to do all of them all at once. Turn off breaker. Pull out old single switch. Connect the black line wire to the LINE connector on the zwave switch (this is the power coming into the switch box). Connect the black load wire to the LOAD connector on the new switch (this is the black wire coming from the light to power it). Now, these switches need to be connected to the white Neutral wire that is crumbled up in the back of the switch box. These switches come with a pliable extra white wire. Wire nut the whites together. Turn on the breaker and the blue LED light comes on that's on the switch. Test the switch manually to make sure that you can turn on and off the light. If the blue lights not on, you probably have the black wires switched. Open the app, tap on "Add a Thing", press up on the switch and the hub recognizes the new switch. Rename it and you're set.
Sounds complicated, but the hardwiring the switch is more complicated than integrating the new switch with the Hub. With the app, I have it set so when both my phone and my wife's phone break connection with our home wi-if, SmartThings turns off everything. (Have to always remember to remind the babysitter!)
Amazon Echo has it's own app that needs to be integrated, but SmartThings has step by step instructions on that. Had no problem. Now I say, "Alexa, turn off living room lights" and all the lights in the living room turn off. Awesome!
The only problem I have had is with 3 way switches. This is where there are 2 or more switches doing the same light. When you pull out the switch on these bad boys, you'll be met with black, white and red wires. These are wired differently than normal 3 way switches. The way it is suppose to work is that there is one main zwave switch and an add on switch (which has no receiver). When you press the add on switch, it's suppose to turn off the lights AND send a signal to the main switch, to send a signal to the Hub, so that it registers as on/off on the app. I've had some of the newer zwave+ switches that do not register on the app. I.e., I turn off the light with the add on switch, but the app still says the light is on. Not a big deal, but it is annoying. This has only happened on the newer GE 14xxx Zwave switches with the older 12xxx add on switches.
Besides this issue, everything has worked flawlessly. Other issues that have appeared are due to my figuring out complex 3 way switches that power multiple different lights. Overall, I would recommend this to anyone interested in an easy entry into home automation!
I am in the process of replacing an ancient (predates the dinosaurs) homegrown Elk security system that has no chance of incorporating home automation. I decided to dive headlong into security/automation products. I wanted a complete all-in-one answer rather than one system for security and one system for automation. I also wanted Alexa and IFTTT integration. Enter the “Hub”. Perfect.
To test the system before replacing all the old security sensors, I purchased several products – all Z-Wave Plus: Leviton Switch DZ15S, Leviton Dimmer DZ6HD, Leviton Plug-In Outlet DZPA1, Ecolink Motion Sensor with Pet Immunity PIR-ZWAVE2.5-ECO, Ecolink Door/Window Sensor DW-ZWAVE2.5. The Ecolink Door/Window sensors are large. I actually tried several other smaller sensors to no avail.
Every one of the devices connected with absolutely no issues.
The “Hub” software and the integration with Alexa are working perfectly. I have geo-fencing set up so that when either my Android phone or my wife’s iPhone leave the house or return, the system sends both a text and push notification. I can turn on all the lights when I park the car in front of the house. My front porch lights go on at sunset and off at sunrise – simple setup using the Smart Lights capability. When my wife walks upstairs to the bedroom, a simple “Alexa, turn on the bedroom light” and the light is on. I have not yet tried to set up scenes or rooms but I suspect that will be easy.
Ready for this? There are two apps on the Windows 10 Store – Home Remote and SmartThings To Start – that give you access to the devices while sitting at a PC. The SmartThings app on Android, the iPhone and iPad is very easy with a simple interface. You can even put your favorites on the lock screen.
The SmartThings app development is open-source. That means you can code your own apps if you are so inclined to try it. To code a smart app you use a derivative of the Java programming language name Groovy (and yes, Groovy is groovy, an easier and more concise language than Java but runs in a Java Virtual Machine).
There is also IFTTT if you want to code various actions based on events.
So, only a month into my testing, no problems. I am constantly opening and closing doors and windows, walking by the motion detector and giving Alexa a workout turning lights on and off or changing the dimming.
The Ecolink devices use the CR123A battery and all devices after a month still show 100%. The Ecolink devices report their battery level to the “Hub”.
My house is well covered by two Wi-Fi access points. The Z-Wave Plus devices act in a mesh network and so far no problem with devices not being detected. I would strongly recommend going with Z-Wave Plus devices as the coverage is better with less power draw than the original Z-Wave.
For those adventurous souls, there are several tutorials online about coding a SmartThings app using Groovy. One sample has you code an app to turn on a light if motion is detected.
By the way, some window/door sensors (the Fibaro and Nortek GoControl for example), are not detected as a window/door sensor but rather as a switch. They report an activity when an event happens (open or close) but do not show the current status (open or closed).
And now for the security part. SmartThings has paired with Scout Alarm for professional monitoring. This solves my requirement for one system to handle security and home automation. There is no additional hardware nor contract required to utilize Scout. You can pay my month or yearly at a discount.
I expect to continue testing for several more months before I undertake a complete removal of the old security hardware. I will update this review as my testing proceeds.
All in all, Groovy!